So I installed Explorer patcher to get the old taskbar back https://github.com/valinet/ExplorerPatcher
Other than that the only feature of 11 that I have used is the snap zones. And I guess if I want that I can install the power toy it is based on.
It's excellent, except I wish the mouse interacted it on click instead of mousover. Still better than the default.
(another tool along those lines I use is uBar, which is a Windows-style taskbar for macOS)