Google "how to install home assistant" which leads to:
>https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/
>If you are unsure of what to choose, follow the Raspberry Pi guide to install Home Assistant Operating System.
This leads to:
>https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/raspberrypi
This has a nice visual guide that requires you to know how to buy a raspberry pi, how to plug in a raspberry p, how to plug in an sd card (twice), and how to navigate to a url.
I almost exlusively use zigbee2mqtt [0] reference to find devices that suit me. Searching for `meter` gives a lot of options, you'd have to do more investigation to find something that supported 40A, but my guess would be that a clamp meter is likely your best option.
It's also possible that you could use one of the DIN rail options in your fusebox, but I haven't looked at the current ratings.
The second link is this one: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/guide-how-to-install-h...
But the linked page is pretty complex.
I removed the TECKNET logo with isopropyl alcohol.
The receiver has dozens of tunes, but the only one worth using is the Westminster Chime Melody. There's also a "ding-dong ding-dong", but it's annoying that it plays twice. The rest are just too long; it's a doorbell, not a jukebox.
The receiver remembers the tune and volume if power is interrupted, so that extra cruft doesn't matter after initial setup.
Instead of remote controlling the kettle, get a hot water dispenser.
In Europe: https://yum-asia.com/eu/product-category/instant-hot-water-h...
(Search the page for "Original Smart Fan Speed Control Switch", there's seemingly no way to link directly to the requisite page section... which is a thing I could rant about but will not).
One thing that stands out with Lutron products is their use of a unique spectrum[0], unlike almost all other smarthome products that share the same noisy bands.
[0]: https://assets.lutron.com/a/documents/clear_connect_technolo...
While the effect no doubt varies with individual, there has been a significant amount of studies suggesting that there is some link between bright light in shorter wavelengths (so blue end of spectrum) and melatonin suppression, and in turn circadian rhythms [ex: 0, 1, 2]. If you live near the equator with consistent sunrise/sunset year round artificial light management may be less of a concern to you, but the further you are and the more seasonal variation you experience the more helpful it may be (and is for me) to have lighting throughout home/work that can help maintain circadian rhythm as desired. "Sunrise" into bright white/blue in the morning and day, then slowly changing into dimmer, redder light as one approaches the desired time to go to sleep. YMMV of course but as someone in tech who had decades of difficulty in maintaining a normal 24h cycle in the northern latitudes, heavy light brightness and temperature control has been a very significant improvement in my QOL and I never want to go back.
Of course, some people just enjoy having fun with lighting as well, for parties and mood and such. "Painting with light" can be interesting by itself. But for me the practical advantages have been significant value for the cost, and without any need for any kind of drugs or other mechanisms.
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0: https://www.webmd.com/sleep-disorders/sleep-blue-light
1: https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/blue-light-ha...
https://youtu.be/0506yDSgU7M?t=632
>Get a new sd card and reload from the last backup.
1. How do you do backups? Is it built into home assistant? Do you think the average person knows or will remember to make backups?
2. "restore from backups" works if the sdcard just dies. If it's silently corrupting your install and causing weird behavior you won't even know it's sd card's fault unless you go through troubleshooting.
This means that instead of a light switch, there is a button. And when I relocate, I can just remove these devices from the switches and take them with me
If one could trigger scheduled actions by connecting a remote control to a daily or weekly plug-in timer, that would meet virtually every use case I have for app-controlled appliances, bulbs, and locks.
[https://www.homedepot.com/p/Schlage-Camelot-Satin-Nickel-Ele...]
I had one on my house growing up from like 2007-2012, rock solid. Bought a house this year and the first thing I did was install these on the front and back doors. Seems like it's exactly the same model that was being sold in 2007 (which is still on my childhood home and going strong btw).
Yes, it was primitive by today's standards with a very limited command set, but that command set was good enough for 90% of purposes and its simplicity meant that it was trivial to implement correctly and everything interoperated.
It didn't need an internet connection to function. It didn't even need a local server. Though you could have a programmable controller, the minimum viable setup consisted of having some X10-enabled device (such as a light socket), an X10 switch, and setting some DIP switches as configuration.
https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/products/air/thermostats...
Geeksmart "smart dumb" fingerprint door lock:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TMBL7FW
works great
>The modules were designed to respond to commands sent over the electrical wires inside the house. They could turn on or off, or in the case of a lamp, change brightness. The advantage of using a power-line communication system was that it didn’t require any additional (and costly) signal wiring.
"I've had 18 heart procedures. My wife is in perfect health. The odds of me outliving her are zero...We're moving back to Coronado. This is a complex house, even though I think it's simple! For her to try and teach somebody else how to run everything and do everything would be difficult if something happened to me. So we're just kind of jumping ahead."
I first learned about these from the author of 'calm technology' https://calmtech.com/
1. https://github.com/fuslwusl/homeassistant-addon-victoriametr...