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[parent] [thread] 3 comments
1. JshWri+(OP)[view] [source] 2010-01-19 22:39:12
I realize the bowline family is used extensively in marine settings, but the figure-eight family is a lot easier to tie in most settings, and almost always results in a stronger system.
replies(2): >>gcv+81 >>yan+16
2. gcv+81[view] [source] 2010-01-19 23:04:36
>>JshWri+(OP)
Yay, a knot geekery thread. :)

The bowline rules for tying one-handed. Otherwise, I'm inclined to agree with you, but properly dressing the figure-eight can be bit of a chore. It's too easy to get the ropes crossed inside the knot. For non-climbing use, I like the alpine butterfly family. Strong, versatile, and easy to tie in single, double, or triple-loop versions.

replies(1): >>Super_+z4
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3. Super_+z4[view] [source] [discussion] 2010-01-20 01:15:53
>>gcv+81
I can't remember where but I saw some tests that showed an un-dressed figure 8 had a higher breaking strength than one where the ropes crossed. (it's kinda academic given the sort of forces required though)

Personally I use a bowline + stopper for climbing, figure 8s are a swine to undo with pumped arms if you fall on them hard & if you're pulling the rope through gear there's always the worry you won't fully untie knot.

4. yan+16[view] [source] 2010-01-20 02:10:38
>>JshWri+(OP)
When I climb trad or top rope, I tie in with figure-eight, but when I sport climb, the double bowline is preferable because it's easy to untie after taking a whipper.
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