I swear, the big reason models are black boxes are because we _want_ them to be. There's clear anti-sentiment mentality against people doing theory and the result of this shows. I remember not too long ago Yi Tay (under @agihippo but main is @YiTayML) said "fuck theorists". I guess it's not a surprise Deep Mind recently hired him after that "get good" stuff.
Also, I'd like to point out, the author uses "we" but the paper only has one author on it. So may I suggest adding their cat as a coauthor? [0]
I am on the review panel of some conferences too and it is not uncommon to be assigned a paper outside of my comfort zone. That doesn't mean I cut and bail. You set aside time, read up on the area, ask authors questions, and judge accordingly. Unfortunately this doesn't happen most of the time - people seem to be in a rush to finish their review no matter the quality. At this point, we just mechanically keep resubmitting the paper every once a while.
Sorry, end of rant :)